Trends may come and go but these watches have real sticking power. Here is a selection of iconic watches with incredible variety of styles and functions that will command attention on any wrist
Hermès Slim Perpetual Calendar
This rose gold watch’s thinness begins inside with a specially made QP module build atop the Hermès caliber H1950 movement. With an airy outer dial set in a 39.5mm case, far less eyestrain is required to comprehend. The GMT subdial at 6 o’clock, the only blue hand on the dial, is larger than the others and easily adjustable with a pusher just below the crown. The months and years (including leap years), date, and moonphase are each displayed in their own subdial, and each can be adjusted via a micro-pusher set into the case adjacent to each subdial.
A.Lange & Söhne 1 Tourbillon
Two perpetual calendars, each with a tourbillon, were introduced this year — but this one takes the cake. The white gold and gray dial combines the calendar with outsize date, plus a retrograde day-of-the-week and leap-year displays, and a peripheral month ring and tourbillon marking just beneath the 12. The mechanism has been designed in such a way that it must be advanced only by one day in the year 2100. And the moonphase display will even run true for 122.6 years before it needs to be corrected by one day.
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition Top Gun
As part of the newly revamped pilot’s watch collection, IWC’s crown jewels remains the QP Top Gun edition. Its seven-day power reserve engages myriad of complications, including the aforementioned QP with four-digit year display together with day, date, and month displays, as well as a moonphase indicator. The case is fashioned from zirconium oxide and has a hardness that rivals that of sapphire and diamond, lending the watch its trademark “stealth” appearance. It’s rare to find a perpetual calendar watch that isn’t also a dress watch. But if you’re looking for a weekend watch, not to mention one that’s a whopping 48mm, keep this on the watch winder and enjoy.
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph
First introduced in 2013, the Rotonde QP has since left quite an indelible impression on watch collectors. Powered by a 1904CH MC movement in its 42mm case, this QP is handsome (and hefty) to a fault, particularly in the rose gold and chocolate brown dial combination. It’s offset by the shaped blued steel hands, guilloche dial, and cabochon blue sapphire crown. In a rare feat of luxury, it allows the measurement and display of short periods of time (chronograph) with a mechanism that can track and compensate for the long period irregularities of the Gregorian calendar, indicating days of the week at 6 o’clock.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5496R
Thanks to its silvery opaline dial and unique layout, this rose gold Patek presents an eccentricity that watch purists love. A non-traditional sub-dial layout is just plain fun: The moonphase sits in the lower part of the dial; the QP is displayed in 3 apertures (day at 9, month at 3, and leap year at 12). The date is indicated by a retrograde hand that moves backward between 7 and 4 while time is displayed by “dauphine” hands in the center of the dial. The case is classic Calatrava, with its bevelled bezel and flat case-bands. This Patek has very reasonable dimensions (39.5mm in
diameter and 11.19mm in height), which contribute to its dressier feel, as well as its everyday comfort.)
By Sanjay K Bissoyi